Flat-Tappet Camshaft Installation

From the beginning, I had decided on using a flat-tappet cam instead of a roller cam to save money. The block was not designed for a roller cam, so in order to fit one, I'd have to buy a cam that uses aftermarket roller lifters, which are very expensive (for what they are).

The camshaft I went with is a COMP XE262h.

To help raise the chances of the camshaft surviving in the engine, I used Crower Cam Saver lifters. They aren't any different from regular hydraulic lifters, other than having a flat spot along one side to allow oil to flow directly onto the cam lobes.

Lubrication

Before installing the cam, the lobes and lifter bases need to be lubricated. Because the cam lobes are not actively oiled by the engine, it is critical that there be an initial lubricant that can survive long enough for the engine to start, and build enough oil pressure for the splash oiling effect from the connecting rod journals on the crankshaft to come into play. The Cam Saver lifters should help, but again, not until the engine is running.

At first, I used the red camshaft assembly lube provided by COMP. I quickly noticed how runny it is; it's like vinegar. A few weeks later, I checked one of the lifters on a hunch, and sure enough, the lifter base was dry. I pulled them all out, and applied black moly grease instead. Moly grease is more likely to clog an oil filter, but it's not very likely to happen if a reasonable amount is used.

Installation

While there are special camshaft installation tools, which act as a large handle, I found it sufficient to use the cam gear and a steady hand. The length of the cam and its weight make it difficult to install, so a lot of care must be used to avoid scratching the cam lobes or the cam journal bearings in the block.

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Page last modified on December 26, 2010 12:23:30. (ID=36)